Non-tourist Rome: a guide from the underground

Rome is much more than only the Colosseum and the Vatican!

Concerts

Centri sociali / Squats

  • “Centro sociale” means squat, generally illegally occupied empty place where there are social
    discussions, concerts, festivals, cultural initiatives. It’s the underground of the city!
  • Forte Prenestino: an old fort of the 1 world war, is one of the biggest squat of Europe. They
    organize in June a great festival of comics called “Crack!” (http://crack.forteprenestino.net/). Every
    3 sunday of the month, in the morning there is a very relaxing self-produced food market called
    “Terra-Terra”. Have a look on the website for informations! www.forteprenestino.net
  • La Torre: an old country-house in a very green park with olive plants in front, it doesn’t seem to be
    in Rome! Every 1 Sunday of the month there is the Terra-Terra market. http://csalatorre.net/
  • Strike: Little squat next to Tiburtina Station. They used to have a great restaurant on thursday
    evening. Not sure they still have it
  • Spartaco: www.spartaco.it pretty far away
  • Acrobax , Close to Basilica di San Paolo. Ex place where gods used to run. They organise events
    once in a while https://acrobax.org/
  • SNIA, close to Pigneto Area

Underground Art

MAAM – Museo dell’altro e dell’altrove (Museum of the Other and of the Elsewhere). This was a
former salami factory occupied by homeless immigrants and now hosts one of Rome’s most
important contemporary art spaces, with installations and paintings by more that 300 artists from
around the world. Open on Saturday, FREE entrance but a donation is welcome. Via Prenestina,
913.


Libraries

All around Rome there are public libraries where you can study or borrow books, movies and
music for free. Open the MAP to discover where they are or search here a specific book on there
database.
I’ve also just discovered a very alternative and indipendent library in the zone of Centocelle, called
BAM (Biblioteca abusiva Metropolitana, which is something like: Metropolitan Unlawful Library).
Here you can navigate on internet, play chess, or borrow a book for free. The place is definitely
unconventional, also a bit dusty and with a lovely cat around.  The address is:
Via dei castani, 42

 

Bikes: Popular Bike-kitchen / Critical Mass


As one of the main problems of Rome is the traffic, there is a movement of bikers who
try to change things. You can get in touch with them in the Bike-kitchen or in the
Critical mass.
A bike-kitchen (or Ciclofficina popolare in italian) it’s a place where you can repair
or build up for free your own bike.

  • The Critical Mass is born in San Francisco in the 80′, it’s the idea to bike all together and at a 
    certain point there will be so many bikers (mass) that they will attract others and others as the
    “critical mass” of the stars!
    They meet every last friday of the month.. it’s very fun, so find a bike and come!
    On the last week-end on May there is the biggest Critical Mass ever called Ciemmona 
    (www.ciemmona.org) and there will be people coming from all Europe!!

FESTIVALS

  • Festival of comics “Crack!” in the Forte Prenestino in May/june. Via Lorenzo Delpino ♥
  • Carnival of Poggio Mirteto, a historical anti-catholic carnival in a little city next to Rome
  • Wine Festival “Enotica” – Forte Prenestino, around June
  • Errichetta Festival – Balkan music festival organized by the wonderful Errichetta Underground –
    Around September
  • Ciemmona – 3 days biking around the city all together and ending up in squats and to the sea – last
    weekend of May

CINEMA

Cine Detour , Via Urbana, 107

French Cinema. Inside the French istitute, they have a super good selection. In French with italian subtitles. 5 euros. Largo Toniolo, 22

Cinema delle Provincie

Goethe Institut This is the german Institut in Rome.They often do projections of very nice movies (in german with english or italian subtitles), and generally for free.

MULTI-ETHNIC FOOD

Morocco

Atlas – Fast food in the Zone of Centocelle (near MetroC Mirti). Soup of the day, gree tea, handmade bread and meat cooked in the typical tajine. Via degli Aceri 104, Centocelle

INDIA / BANGLADESH

Banglar Shaad Good and aboundant indian food In the zone of Torpignattara. Via della Maranella 36

Indian Fast Food next to Piazza Vittorio. The food is good, even if the people are a bit unfrendly. Via Mamiani, 11

ETHIOPIA / ERITREA

Unkown Name (but the best) Undeground etiopian restaurant close to Termini: Via di Montebello 51

Ristorante Eritrea. Very good and a lot of food, open only at dinner and ideal for couples. Piazza del Gazometro,1

Asmara Restaurant. A bit cheaper than the previous one, close to Termini Station and open also at luch. Via Cernaia 36

Associazione Comunità Etiopica in Italia The best! Not only they serve a delicious ethiopian food, but this place is also ameeting point of the Ethiopian community and they often do the coffee cerimony, all together in front of a little coal stove. – update Oct 2021: it seems to be closed

KURDISTAN

The Best Kumpir. The best kebab in San Lorenzo and super friendly people. Via Tiburtina 164

BAZAR – Taverna Curdo Napoletana Kurdish-Neapolitan restaurant in the area of Torpignattara.  Via Casilina, 607

CINA

Hua Lian, Very cheap and aboundant Chinease Restaourant near Piazza Vittorio. Via Urbano Rattazzi 22

Chinese Restaurant. In Torpignattara.  Very authentic, full of chinese people and the dishes are huge! Via della Maranella 43

The parks

  • Villa Borghese the nearest to the centre haunt from families, you can have a nice view of the city
    from a terrace called “Il Pincio”
  • Villa Ada: the biggest and wildest.
  • Villa Pamphili
  • Parco dell’Appia Antica: on sunday you can walk on the ancient roman consular road, Appia,
    from Circo Massimo it gets exactly to the front entrance of Ciampino Airport. It’s very beautiful and
    green, with the old roman BIG stones on the floor!